Scarsdale Inquirer: Friday April 23rd 1999

Creative Cooking

PAGE 14/THE SCARSDALE INQUIRER/FRIDAY, APRIL 23, 1999

Judie Dweck

For bistro dining a la Paree, try Jackie's in Eastchester

April in Paris – a wonderful thought – with many memorable meals at a welcoming, heart-warming, palate-pleasing bistro with down-to-earth cooking. Perhaps the Paris part is impossible this year, but the bistro dining is available nearby in Eastchester, at Jackie’s Bistro.

This inviting, intimate bistro is owned by Joël Huchet, the accomplished chef, and his wife, Jacqueline "Jackie" Huchet, the charming manager of the dining room.

French and American flags wave outside in the breeze, side by side, a blackboard announces the specialties and as you enter Jackie’s Bistro, a wall of family memorabilia makes the space very personal.

Many dining spots call themselves "bistros" but Jackie’s Bistro is the real thing – a cozy spot, deeply satisfying, where people feel comfortable, with hearty food served in generous portions and the menu reflects many of the features of the owners’ roots in France.

The owners met while working in a chateau hotel in France, in 1968. They spent many winter seasons in the Alps and summers seasons on the Riviera. They left France in 1975 and worked in Switzerland. On to Bermuda where Joël Huchet was gourmet chef at the Hamilton Princess. In 1981 they moved to New York, Where he banquet chef at the Palace Hotel and chef at other fine French establishments; back to Europe as executive chef for Euro Disney and finally back to New York at La Reserve and here to Westchester to Eastchester Fish Gourmet.

Now it was time, with their children grow, to satisfy their dream – a small place of their own. So Jackie’s Bistro was born.

When asked who has the most influence in shaping their careers, Jackie Huchet said, "We have grown together by working together. We have a mutual respect, and help and influence each other in our work."

At Jackie’s Bistro the selections follow the true bistro tradition with appetizers of composed salads and hearty soup, entrees of ragouts and roasts, straightforward desserts and wines of their home region.

Among the appetizers are traditional onion soups gratinée crusted with cheese, mesclun salad with home-made vinaigrette, escargots, home-made paté with cesclun and cornichons, warm goat cheese over baby mixed greens as well as steamed mussels with white wine and herbs. These traditional offerings are beautifully executed and presented.

An appetizer of grilled shrimp, asparagus and roasted portobello was a wonderful starter with an excellent combination of flavors. A specially one evening was a shrimp and scallop mousse served warm with asparagus that was outstanding for its taste, texture and presentation.

Entrees include traditional bistro dishes such as Cassoulet Troulousin, a stew of great northern beans; confit of duck, lamb, pork and garlic sausage; Boeuf Bourguignon, the beef cooked in red wine with carrots and mushrooms and served with mashed potatoes; coq au vin, choucroute Alsacienne and Rognons de Veau Dijonnaise.

For me, a visit to Jackie’s Bistro would not be complete without the outstanding sirloin steak au poivre with pommes frites. I’ve enjoyed this many times and the consistency in cooking was evident. Perfect each time. Sauteed calve’s liver with shallot and white wine sauce is also superb.

Specialty one evening of swordfish with grilled vegetables and mashed potatoes was a hearty entrée, prepared perfectly I must return to sample the roasted crisp duckling, grilled salmon with leeks, sun-dried tomatoes in a beurre blanc, rack of lamb provencal and veal fricasse in brandy mushroom sauce.

A bistro meal would not be completed without a honey dessert. Try the profiteroles, créme brulée, chocolate mousse or apple tart at Jackie’s Bistro.

You may enter Jackie’s Bistro as just another diner but you will leave feeling like family -- anticipating many return visits.